To Save Their Lives

On January 31st we gathered 60 kids into a small, sunny classroom and then lectured them for two hours. Why? To save their lives. The lecture was on HIV/AIDS and also covered abortion and alcohol. Olya, the head of Interlink’s Youth Impact (which reaches out to orphanage graduates) created and gives the lectures. The children are a cross section of kids who live at the institution and other locals who attend classes there. For two hours they heard and discussed topics which are normally completely taboo here. Of course there was laughter, whispering, the passing of notes, and the mischievous boys in the back row, but those two hours might have just saved their life. Now, that’s a good feeling!

Horse Meat, Toast, and Things that Last

This weekend it was PARTY CENTRAL at my host home! So much so that I’m having a hard time keeping my eyes open…and it’s Tuesday! We started off with a birthday party for my host mom, Sholpan, and then another party the next night, just because!

And OY…the parties they have here! It’s all family and friends who are more like family, eating that goes on and on and on, singing and dancing, talking and more talking, enough tea to swim in and just when you think it’s wrapping up, it starts all over again! But as sleepy as I am this week from my late nights, I wouldn’t change my time with these families for the world.

Things that last: The parties always seem to end in song. The mamas, Sholpan, Rosa, Almash, and Mary have been friends for 25 years now. Their sons share names and their daughters are more like sisters. It’s a beautiful thing, friendships like that. They tell the funniest stories, still cry over the passing of beloved parents, sing old songs they know all the words too, lecture children (each others) over what they should do with the rest of their lives, and have made plans to find me a husband. J And the best part is that their daughters are following in their footsteps. Elmira plays the dombra and sings with a gorgeous voice, just like her mother, Sholpan. Sowel tells stories with expression and suspense just like her mother, Almash. And Rosa’s daughter, well, she is the quiet one with the well placed words, balancing the other two, just like her mama.

Toasts: I’ve also learned the tradition of KZ “toasting.” In the US we toast at weddings and formal dinners. In KZ anytime you have a “dasdarhan” or gathering of friends and family for a meal, each person is expected to make a toast to the host, the guest, to everything and anything. I have now decided that I like this tradition…a lot. How often do we in the US take time to tell our friends and family how much we appreciate them or to speak hope into one another’s lives? I’m looking forward to bringing this tradition home with me!

Horse meat: Monday night I had horsemeat. It wasn’t my first time, nor will it be my last. Tip to self though, don’t let anyone else serve you because you’ll end up with a lot of meat to go through!

Motivation

The kids. Oh the children are wonderful and the time always too short with them. After years of work, Interlink has a consistent relationship with several orphanages in town, two of them very large which we visit weekly. Here are some of my favorite shots from this past week.

I look forward to getting to know these children by name and learning enough language to converse, or at least joke around! You can see my coworker Sara’s blog for some deeper stories on these children and some of my other photos.

I also ran into one of my graduate orphans at the bazaar. I am hoping to see the rest of the girls on Monday and we are planning to make it to the city the boys live in by early February. I am so anxious to see them (and wishing I had worked harder at my Russian lessons!).

The How-To Manual of Kazakahstan, Chapter II

So here’s another installment of how-to living in Kazakhstan. I hope you enjoy these helpful life skills and tips.

How to get in the gate (aka How to wake up security). First, ring the bell. Wait and ring it again, and again, and again, and again. If this fails to produce a sleepy face from within, honk your car horn loudly. Honk again and again. Next try to rattle the gate and shout loudly. This of course is futile, but at least you will have tried. Perhaps the guard wakes to the sound of metal on metal instead of annoying buzzing sounds. If still no man appears, use surrounding objects, in an attempt to set off the building alarm. In winter, use snow, aim high, and throw hard. Do this even with the knowledge that it is ineffectual. Fiftly, set off your own car alarm in the hopes that the guard might think it is his own. (Note, this only works if the guard has a car). Finally, call “papa” who is head of security. Make sure to make your voice especially pitiful, helpless, and needy. This works wonders. While waiting for rescue, huddle for warmth, yelling the occasional robust shout in the general direction of the building. Wait five minutes, call papa again to make sure he is on his way.

How to (not) cross the road. For anyone who has lived in a large city, especially a non-American city, this lesson is a no brainer. Look both ways. I even saw a dog do it the other day, no lie! Wait till the road is somewhat clear, make strong eye contact with oncoming cars and walk quickly. One small note from day #4 in KZ is under no circumstances, no matter what is happening or who it is, do NOT follow the person walking in front of you across the street! Always check for yourself. Always, always, always, always. ‘Nuf said.

How to buy meat. Here is a small word to all the vegetarians out there. KZ is not the country for you. I think I have eaten more meat in a week and a half than I did in a month at home! This is not an exaggeration. I crave green (not meat) and a highlight meal this week was the one that included broccoli (frozen and hoarded by my coworkers months ago). Anyway, so here is how to buy meat in KZ. Guys, listen up, this is your job. First, get a friend. Then get another friend with a car. Go to someone's home where they have prepared an animal (probably a goat or sheep). Load the whole, naked, frozen carcass in the car trunk. Try to close trunk. Try again. Decide it won’t close, get in and drive off. Take home to happy lady.

I am. SPARTAN!

I think I’m adapting to life in the chill rather well. After countless lectures I’ve final bought proper shoes (tall boots lined with fur) and fur lined caps. Actually, to be honest, I’ve enjoyed the novelty of snow and ice. Although the enjoyment may fade with time, the crunch of my shoes in the early morning silence as I walk to the bus stop is a pleasant accompaniment to whatever song I’m currently humming. For now it’s funny to see my hair turn white with ice by the time I reach my bus stop. Yesterday I had to laugh when I realized that the steam rising from my breath had frozen my scarf to my cheek! Later, my response was the same when my coworker Sara had to scrape ice off the INSIDE of her van windows! Supposedly this is the coldest winter most locals can remember. Oh the irony that this sunshine seeking heat loving girl arrives to be greeted by the coldest winter on record. The lows are expected to continue until mid-February. I’ll keep you posted!

My first day on the bus to work, they pushed me off. Seriously! No joke. However they didn’t push me off to be mean, the bus was just too full and people couldn’t get on or off…and guess who was nearest the doors. My host sister, who road with me the first day was helpless as she was bound by arms and legs so mixed it was as if strange beast had taken over the inner compartment of the bus with eyes looking out reproachfully from fur covered heads when any new victim boarded the bus. Despite the looks, the beast did let me back on and I made it to work. Day two though…I was on my own!

Though I’m slightly intimidated by the rude busmen, the crowds, and my inability to see out the ice covered windows, there has been a strange sense of satisfactory victory when I manage to get off at the right stop! The first time I made it on my own I had to literally restrain myself from jumping around with the realization I had beat the beast! I had to settle for striding briskly, head down, singing praises quietly behind my scarf. This way I at least looked like I somewhat fit it!

The top picture is me next to the Interlink office. Then there is Sara scraping ice off the inside of windows. The last picture is of my host home street. My houseis the shorter one on the right.

How to successfully arrive in Kazakhstan

Well, I am safe and sound in Kazakhstan. I thought I'd help out others who may be planning to travel to this grand land any time soon...

1. How to play Canasta: First, never trust your opponent. They will teach you tricks to the game and then use them against you. This is important to know as you will have approximately 7 hours to play as you wait for your delayed train.
2. How to get your luggage off the bus: First, find the bus. Make sure you have a license plate number and that you check all buses that even come near to the bus stop, even if they stop a block away and then pass by. Next, after identifying your bus, track it slowly in the dark and snow. Go when it goes and stop when it stops. Finally when someone gets out to open the luggage compartments leap from your vehicle and point repeatedly at your bins. Wait until the persnickity old bus man goes away...then grab your bins and run!!!!! If need be, stack two and drag to your van! Get in and GO!
3. How to preserve leftovers: Leave the pot on the stove for several days. Open, heat, and enjoy. (Note: Stoves in KZ are on an outside porch where temperatures generally remain close to freezing in the winter. Also note, manual will be updated when spring methods of preservation are discovered).
4. How to use the internet: Begin by gathering all possibly electic wire and gagets within a 20 mile radius. Plug as many things together as possible and walk away. Call the electronics people who will come, probably the day after they said they would, watch them do what they could have told you to do on the phone, namely switch two wires...and wait. :)

Well, I hope this is helpful to all you future travelers to KZ. In the meantime I must shower and use the indoor toilet one last time before moving to my host home! More posts to come!

Ps: If you'd like to email me, please use emumaw@interlinkresources.org. Also note, I'm having some "sending" problems so it may take me till Monday to reply!

A Roof Over My Head

It looks like a host home has been found for me. Hurrah! :) I'll keep you posted as I learn more... and, well, when I arrive and settle in.